Vientiane

Laos’ capital city is one of the smallest capital cities in the world, and its sleepy vibe is the perfect introduction to Laos life. Although slightly disheveled with dusty, potholed streets the city offers many pleasant surprises for travelers. Situated on the Mekong River, directly across from Thailand, the city warrants two or three full days for traveling.

Where to stay in Vientiane?

Vientiane does not have nearly the selection of accommodation as say Bangkok, but there are some solid choices and hotels that we highly recommend.

One of our favorite hotels in Asia is The Green Park Boutique Hotel. Both historic and modern, this chic hotel features elegant interiors, superior service, and a tranquil setting. Our favorite rooms are the ‘Executive Suites’, whose spacious interiors and double balconies truly enhance your stay in the capital. Another option is The Settha Palace, which stands as a testament to the elegance and gracious service of the French colonial era.

What to see in Vientiane?

A full day city tour by bicycle or car exposes the main sites of the city and walks you through the historic periods of Lao culture. The tranquil Wat Sisaket was the only temple to survive the Siamese (Thai) invasion of 1827 and the beautiful wood-covered hallways are filled with thousands of Buddha statues. Directly across the street is Wat Phra Kaew which once held the Emerald Buddha now revered in Bangkok. The interior museum is a great place to learn about Buddhist culture and history.

A walk along Lane Xang Avenue might bring visions of Paris. Designed to resemble the Champs Elysees, this tree lined street in the centre of town even has its very own ‘Arc de Triomphe’. Slightly quirky, climbing to the top of Patuxay offers fantastic views of the city. Continuing out of town on Lane Xang Avenue, you reach That Luang. This magnificent gold-leaf covered stupa is the national symbol of Laos and one of its most important religious sights. Each fall, a massive festival is held in the grounds around the stupa and people from all over the country descend upon Vientiane to partake in the religious celebrations.

The capital is located on the banks of the Mekong River which forms the border between Laos and Thailand. In the late afternoon, the banks of the Mekong fill up with local stalls selling cold beers and fresh local food. Sitting by the river, you can watch the fishermen and catch a beautiful sunset view.

In Vientiane, you have the opportunity to discover one of delicious Laos Coffee. Laos produces one of the most famous coffees in the world that grown, often referred to as the ‘Champagne of Coffee’. Grown in Southern Laos on the Boloven Plateau, the beans are sought after for their delicious taste. A visit to the coffee centre will teach you more about the process of roasting and blending of the beans, and is concluded with a cupping tasting session.

For those interested in traditional crafts and textiles, a visit to Carol Cassidy should not be missed. Housed in a colonial mansion, Ms Cassidy has set up a series of looms and here traditional methods of dying and weaving are practiced resulting in beautiful, high quality silks. The charity shop Les Artisans Laos is a fascinating visit to watch recycled and renewable materials such as bamboo, palm, and mulberry leaves being turned in to quality notebooks, stationary and printer paper.

Learn about the tragic recent history of Laos at COPE, the Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise. Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world and COPE provides prosthetic limbs for those who cannot afford it. COPE has a great display of information and exhibitions on the problems and work being done to help the victims.

If you have more than a day in Vientiane, it is worth it to take an excursion outside of the city where there are many delights to be had.

On the way toward the Thai border lies the bizarre Buddha Park. Built by an eccentric former shaman priest in the 1950s, this park has hundreds of stone Hindu and Buddhist sculptures.  The Phou Khao Kway National Park is just an hour away from the capital. Here you can trek through dense forests, swim in cool waterfalls, and experience the diversity of Laos’ flora and fauna. A special Orchid Trek can be arranged, a unique experience where a local guide takes you on a journey through the park to try and spot some of the beautiful orchid species in the park.

North of the city is Nam Ngum Lake, the largest lake in Laos, and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Take a boat cruise on the lake and enjoy the beautiful views of the surrounding mountains, hills and forests. With an abundance of fish in the waters, Nam Ngum Lake is a favorite fishing area for the locals and you will see the fishermen using hoop nets, regular nets and lines. Ban Pako, located 55km from the capital, is the perfect place to chill out and escape Vientiane. Set along the banks of the Nam Ngum River and surrounded by jungle, Ban Pako offers a glimpse in to the real rural Laos. A small eco-lodge, Ban Pako Lodge, is located there for those wishing to stay over night.

Shopping and Dining

Thanks to its French legacy and large ex-patriot population, Vientiane has a great variety of dining options. For local cuisine, try Makphet, a charity-run restaurant that supports underprivileged youth in the area. Their cuisine is authentic Laos, prepared with the highest in hygienic conditions, served fresh and with friendly service. 

Dinner at Phatoke Laoderm is a unique evening. Housed in an old cinema, the restaurant serves delicious food whilst you are being entertained by a traditional Laos dance performance. Another unique, but typically Lao, dining experience is Poysian. Here guests barbeque their own array of meats in an al fresco setting, accompanied by soupy broth and cold Beer Lao. This style of dining is locally called sin dat and it is a truly local (and delicious!) experience. 

For a special experience, check out Le Nadao which serves up fine French and Laos fare or our favorite, New Amphone. This hidden gem is tucked down a small laneway and features subtle lighting, jazzy music, and luscious wooden décor. The food is to die for (as are the cocktails!) including traditional Lao dishes such as barbequed Mekong fish, beef laap, and the ubiquitous sticky rice.